Madtown
- Cecily Costa
- Jun 29, 2020
- 13 min read
September 4-20, 2019
Mendota County Park, Middleton (Madison), WI
Day 82-98
Started the day off with calling Cigna to make sure Univ Wisconsin is in network and fortunately, was able to make an appointment to see a doctor tomorrow! Took care of all the registration over the phone, so check-in tomorrow should be easy. Then I packed up and left my brother's front yard for the Mendota County Park nearby.
Ah, camp! This is a really nice, clean county park about 10 minutes away. The lots are huge and there are many tall and old growth trees providing dispersed shade. I have electric at my site but water and dump are in a central location in the park, so I will need repark a few times while I am here for 3 weeks. It’s humid here so having electric for the AC is a blessing. (Side note, there are such things as portable water bladders and holding tanks, but I don't need them at this point. Will look into that later if I plan on doing a lot of boondocking down the road.)
Went to another dog park today, Badger; the best yet! Huge park with a separate small dog area, but we like the large dog area for throwing the ball. Thankfully, Sparky is on his best behavior at all these parks - I haven't had to worry about him starting, or being in, any fights. Finished the day with errands.
Day 2 - To make things easier on me, my brother drove me to the 8 am appointment. After meeting with the doctors, they believe I need surgery, as soon as possible. They're surprised how much I have accomplished at this point and that I have been walking without a cane. They discussed the procedure and recovery, and that I should expect to be off the road for at least 10-12-weeks. I'm healthy, so recovery shouldn't be too bad. Told them I need to think heavily of having it done here or in Boston (near my sister Sarah). They gave me a doctor referral at Mass General Hospital just in case; it was this doctor’s training doctor/professor.
Boy, I have a lot to think about. I feel so lucky to have family wanting to host me! The challenge with Wisconsin is that their home would need to be rearranged to accommodate me. I know they would take great care of me, and Sparky would be really happy too. But, my sister’s house, near Boston, has a first-floor option w/bath. Either way, I need to figure out where to leave my rig. It’s all a little overwhelming.
Day 3 - Off to another dog park, Brittingham. Super tiny, downtown location with no parking, so I just did a drive by. We go to the next dog park on the list, Sycamore Park, 15 minutes away. It’s awesome! I can't believe how nice the dog parks are here. This one is a huge green space with prairie flowers along the perimeter. The senior/small dog area was amazing too; larger than most regular dog parks and covered with green grass. We had it all to ourselves.
Day 4 - Will and I are off to Galena, IL on a field trip today! We are going for two reasons - one, Galena is a popular cute town and secondly, Ulysses S Grant lived here before he became President. I drove because the truck is super comfortable for me and, as we are so high up, our view is great. We went mostly back roads. It was beautiful; very green, rolling hills, partly cloudy and a little cool. Like me, Will really likes car trips too; actually, my whole family does. This makes it a perfect way for us to spend time together.
Galena is the perfect girls weekend town. There's even a tab on their website under "plan your trip", "girlfriends". The town is named after the mineral which was once mined in this region; gray, shiny cube, assuaged with lead. There’s shopping, dining and strolling. Most of the stores are filled with private label foods, popcorn, tchotchkes; an endless array of items you really don’t need. They have a good number of restaurants/bars to keep your strength and thirst in check, too. The main street is super cute, clean and charming. Located along the Galena River, it's picturesque in all seasons.
I’m not into presidential history, but my brother wanted to go, so I was all in. After all, this adventure of mine has me going thru a lot of historical areas, I might as well take it all in. Turns out President Grant’s life was fairly unremarkable until the Civil War. He lived here before the war and up to becoming President. Though considered an honest man, he was surrounded by people who were not and stole from him. If you're going to Galena, then maybe stop by the house. But, I took enough pictures so you don't have to. I did learn a few interesting things about him though; he is credited with making Christmas a national holiday, ratifying the 15th Amendment and making Yellowstone our first National Park (most people think Theodore Roosevelt did).
On the way back, we stopped into Mt Horeb – the little troll down next to Madison. Other than a few trolls around town, and the cute street signs with trolls on them (like the little corn cobs on the signs in Mitchell, SD), it’s just another darling little suburb to Madison. I was expecting more and was kind of sad they didn’t exploit it more. I was hoping to buy a mini troll as a momento.
Day 5 - Yippy, another road trip but this time to Milwaukee!!! I had never been before and didn’t know really what to expect. Along with Boise, Idaho and Des Moines, Iowa, I really liked Milwaukee! To save time, we drove 90 minutes on the straight and unremarkable interstate. The weather today was overcast and cool – maybe in the low 60’s; perfect for Sparky.
We went to the Third Ward district which reminds me of Boston and New York’s meat packing districts. They have a terrific indoor Public Market. All the food/retail stalls were bustling and freshly stocked. Everything looked delicious and good quality. It’s two floors and you can eat in, or out; nice mix of local people and products. They even had a vegan stall, and a bakery with gluten free/dairy free options. So I gave into some yummy chocolate meringue cookies.
We had lunch across the street at Benelux and then walked around the neighborhood. Architecture here is interesting and unique. I liked it. There was a lot of red brick, stone and this beautiful, cream-colored brick. The City's nickname is actually “cream city” because of this yellow cream brick, which is unique to Milwaukee. The local clay is high in magnesia and lime and when dried, turns cream colored. Turns out the bricks are more durable too. I think it looks elegant.
We drove thru downtown, thru the financial district on Wisconsin Avenue to Prospect Avenue along Lake Michigan. The City was clean. I can’t even recall seeing a homeless person, but I'm sure a city of this size has some. There were large and small modern sculptures everywhere. A kite festival was going on at nearby Veterans Park along the Lake, so we stopped in to enjoy that for that for a while.
Then we drove north along Lake Drive thru the tony neighborhoods of Shorewood and Whitefish Bay. Homes much like what you would see in Sea Cliff or Forest Hill in San Francisco - gorgeous, I mean stunning. One right after the other, but with much bigger yards; most for just over $1M. Homes on the other side of the track start off at $40K; ridiculously low prices! I tell you, this City has a lot going for it.
Day 6 - Made an appointment with the Boston doctor for 11/5. That’s the soonest! ☹. This is just an appointment, not a surgery date. Started mapping out my route to Boston, via Illinois, Indiana and Ohio. Called around to different Airstream dealerships on the East Coast to see if they do storage. It doesn't make sense for me to store the rig near Boston because it will be winter. Aside from the hazards on driving in winter weather, most campgrounds are closed. I want to store it where the weather will be at least 50 during the day when I finally get back in it. Got a reservation the North Carolina dealership for December/January (that may change). Later, another dog park and more errands.
Comment…When I tell people I am from SFO they typically say nothing. Years ago, when I travelled a lot (mostly to major US or European cities), people would swoon when I told them where I lived. Now, there is no comment, unless I engage them further. Often, they mention the homeless situation which they accurately see on TV. Once someone said the word liberal back to me. Usually I say – you’re right, the homeless situation is horrendous, embarrassing and unacceptable. But, I also say that California is the 5th largest economy in the world. Many of our crops are harvested with hands, not huge combines like with corn and soy. The only people that want to do those jobs are immigrants. Most of the immigrants are good people with families to support. I leave it at that.
Day 7 - I can't complain enough about my cell phone’s reception, it's horrible! For months, it has been a problem. Before I left on this adventure, both AT&T and Apple reset it. I have been waiting to be Madison to have it fixed. Now, AT&T says that Apple will need to replace phone. I go to Apple, and they say they need to run more tests before they give me a new phone, which is unlikely...they just don't do that. I say I will never buy another Apple product again if they don’t. They do some tests and put all these notes in my "file". They give it back and say it's all good, and have me test it there. It seems better, but I tell them I will be back if it’s not. I leave, later make some calls and determine the problem has not been fixed. Argh!
Day 8 - Lay low day.
Day 9 - I move to a different spot today. It was easy to make the reservations online, but since I could not find one slot for 21 days straight, I have to move. Not a big deal, I combine my move with getting more water and cleaning the tanks.
I have most bills on automatic pay, but I take care of the rest that are not. Went back to Apple ready to fight, but surprisingly they replaced phone without contest!!! Yes! Then, I stopped into Verizon to get info because I am thinking of switching from AT&T. Most RVer’s I talk to say Verizon has a better network in remote campgrounds and parks in the West. If my phone problems come back, I am switching to Verizon.
I round out the day going back to my brother's. We all go out to dinner which is really nice. I am so happy to be here and spending time with them. Back at their house, weather alerts are on TV and on my phone - thunderstorms, flooding and possible tornados. I stay at their house tonight. Tornados scare the b-jesus out of me; trailers are not safe shelters. Besides, my camp locks up at 10pm and it's already 9:30pm.
Day 10 – Solo field trip to New Glarus, a Swiss town, about an hour away. Once I got out of the city limits, the drive is nice. I stop into Paoli, a tiny town with a few galleries and restaurants along the way. Picked up a sweet painting of a goat done by the owner's daughter. I was hoping to find a cow because, after all, I'm in Wisconsin the cheese state; but honestly the goat is so sweet. Come to think of it, I haven't seen any cows since I've arrived in Wisconsin. Other than a few small farms with animals it's been mostly corn and soy for miles. I browse a teensy local shop which had some cute trailer items. Turns out the owner has a trailer and dreams of taking a trip like mine, but her husband isn't interested. That's the beauty of being a solo traveler, you can go anywhere, anytime.
New Glarus is so darling and authentically Swiss! You can buy traditional cow bells in all sizes, for small dogs to big cows, and a wide variety of raclette equipment, in sizes ranging from mini to professional. People in town speak Swiss, too. The original village is just up the road about 1/2 mile from town. It's now a walking museum but I arrived when they were closing. It looks cute but they don't allow dogs, so it's just as well. We just walk the perimeter and move on.
Had a late lunch at Sugar River Pizza. Ordered a gluten free, dairy free, “Mac” pizza; their take on a Big Mac - hamburger, special sauce, pickles, onions and cheese (sub for me banana peppers). Reminded me of the “Grickle” pizza I had in Tacoma, WA. I do really miss real pizza, but this pie was pretty good, considering. Ate too much, too soon, though and was yawning the whole trip back. Too many carbs! Later met Will and Jen at the movies, saw Yesterday for $3; great movie, great price!
Day 11 – Another field trip and a very long day. Jen, Will and I took my truck to La Cross via Gays Mills, west towards Iowa. Most of the trip was lovely green countryside with some apple orchards. I'm told that in about a month, these trees will be all different colors and especially pretty to drive thru. We stopped in McGregor, Iowa for lunch (across from Prairie du Chien, WI). Jen drove most of the way back, because I ate too many carbs at lunch again and couldn’t stay awake. She drives like a boss; it was nice to be a passenger.
Will has been so wonderful with taking Sparky on walks for me. Today, he took Sparky on a huge walk after lunch thru the woodsy park in McGregor. Sparky came back so rested but covered with tiny pebble like burrs. Took a good while to get them all removed but since he was so well exercised, he just laid there like a baked potato while I combed him out. It was a good day.
Day 12 - Sent out South Dakota which felt great. Solo field trip today to Stoughton, WI the home of the “coffee break”. Unfortunately, this excursion was pretty much a letdown. Most stores were closed today, and the rest seemed to be empty and/or for lease. The buildings are historic though, and the main street has a lot of potential to be adorable. Nothing to really see, so I just drove thru. Stopped at camp to feed Sparky and try out another dog park, right near us in Middleton. No surprise, it's fantastic and since it's closest to us, it will probably be where we go from now on; it's a huge fenced in prairie overlooking farmland. Finally, off to Will's for dinner and a puzzle. Life is good.
History of the Coffee Break - Back in the 1880’s a local tobacco company was short male labor because most went to work at the new wagon factory nearby. So, local women were hired to help with the seasonal sorting and steaming. Most of the local women were Norwegians who enjoyed daily coffee with their chores. To entice the women to work, the tobacco company offered them a break in the morning and afternoon allowing them time go back home for chores and coffee.
Day 13 - Spent much of the morning is typing Minnesota. Took Sparky to the Middleton park, then we headed over to my brother’s. Worked on the puzzle, then I rode the Madison bus system with my nephew, Sam.
Sam has always loved the bus system ever since he was a little boy. It’s really a passion for him, and he hopes to be a driver one day. This was such a great way to see so many different neighborhoods and people of Madison; but mostly for me to spend some time with him. I loved it! And, I learned that the stop announcements are done via GPS coordinates automatically...cool. Later, we finished puzzle and ate dinner outside on the deck.
Day 14 - Two solo field trips today, without Sparky (dropped him off at Will's). The first was nearby to the Mustard Museum in Middleton. This was surprisingly enjoyable and very well done. It has an impressive retail selection and a lot of interesting history and trivia. Like in the movie "Field of Dreams", the founder had a calling one night "if you collect us, they will come". Worth a stop if you are in Madison. I was there for about a half hour but could have been there easily for an hour.
Driving thru this countryside I can’t help but notice all the farms with large dark blue grain silos. I can’t say I have seen this color in any other part of the US; mostly silos are just dull silver aluminum. I love the contrast of these dark blue silos, against a red barn and a lush green field...it's gorgeous. The other observation is of all the colored metal roofs on houses and barns. Red, hunter green, white, blue, black and even purple. And, these look like nice quality roofs. Must be a good business to be in, in these parts.
The second stop was Franklin Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin in Spring Green about 1 hour outside Madison. At the visitor's center, they have a nice farm-to-table restaurant which I had lunch at. They offer several tours and suggest you book on-line, in advance, because the groups are small and sell out. I took the basic two-hour tour. Truth be told, I have never been a big fan of his, but I didn’t know that much about him either.
I loved the natural wood rooms with clever windows capturing the natural light. He really pushed the boundaries of architecture, the exact opposite of Victorian styles. He had no formal architectural/engineering experience; so I find it funny that he was able to start a school, which became accredited by University of Wisconsin, without having a degree in architecture. He was a dreamer. Occasionally on the tour, you can see some structural errors; but I guess if the house is over 100 years old and standing, does it matter? I did learn something new about the Prairie style of houses that he is so well know for...the stained glass windows on the side of the house, along a staircase, are to block the view of the neighbor. Clever.
Unfortunately, he was not good with money and was always short of cash. And, sadly, he had a lot of tragedy in his life; one of his servants murdered his mistress and several other staff, and then house set on fire. I walked away respecting his passion and ambition, but was really turned off by his arrogance. Glad I went, but probably wouldn’t go back.
Finished the day with yummy pork tacos at Will’s and, thankfully, completing another puzzle.
Day 15 – Another solo field trip today around Madison. Because I didn't get a picture of the cream style brick in Milwaukee, I ventured downtown in search of a great example and got one. Met a nice local girl (Fran) and her mom while walking Sparky nearby. She took a picture of Sparky to put on Instagram! She tells me about a GF bakery (Bloom) and artisan chocolate maker (Madison Chocolate) I should go visit; and do, shortly thereafter. I got to meet the owner of Madison Chocolate and it turns out we know a lot of the same people. Small word.
Went on another bus ride adventure with Sam, followed by dinner with Will again. Came back to camp around 9:30 pm, feeling really sad. I have had a great time here. This never would have happened if I was still working. I feel so connected and loved, and I think they do too. They have offered to take Sparky during my recovery if we can meet halfway between Madison and Boston. That means so much, and though I know he would be well cared for, I think my heart would break to be away from my little man for so long. I guess I have separation anxiety, too. Don’t know what to do.
Day 16 - This is my last full day in Madison. I finished up emails, sent out my new Airstream bio (which is now on their website) and did some more writing. Later, we all celebrated by going a local super club – Smokies – for cocktails and dinner. Can you believe my martini was $18!!! Granted it was huge, but still, that’s a lot of $$ especially in these parts.
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