Going To The Sun

July 30-August 1, 2019

Johnson's at St. Mary's, Browning, Montana

Day 46-48

Camp around 10:30am and it took about 3 hours with stops to get to Glacier National Park. Glacier is the most northern part of the Rocky Mountains. My camp is about ½ mile from the St Mary’s (west) entrance of the park. Johnson’s of St Mary’s is up on a hill, and has a great view of the mountains and lake to the east.

My neighbors are also Airstreamers! Suzanne & Keith are from NC and after visiting for a few minutes, make plans to have a glass of wine later tonight. (I like this underlining theme of visiting with wine!)

After making lunch, Sparky and I are off to the visitor’s center. The annual National Parks pass has already paid for itself! After talking with the ranger at the entrance, I decide to do the “Going to the Sun” drive tonight because it will be less busy than in the morning. It’s now about 3:00 pm.

First observation is there is very little snow left on the mountains. It’s summer after all, but I thought the glaciers would have had more snow on them. The first 5 miles go quickly at 45mph, but then things really slow down. Pull-outs are getting busy and/or the road narrows and becomes very windy. On top of that, one side of the road is against the rocky cliff and it feels like you could easily hit it. In some parts of mountain, the road has been carved out of it. The other side, along the cliff, has a small stone wall (or large stones) as a barrier. It looks pretty but doesn’t feel like it would stop you from driving off the cliff. Both lanes are very narrow and cars on each side go over the middle line. After talking to a ranger, she suggested I pull in my driver mirror (large trailer mirror) to give me more space. No trailers, RV or large trucks are allowed on this road, with good reason.

As many of you know, I love driving, but I must say this was very stressful. I don’t recommend driving this gorgeous road in a large truck. Small sports car, yes; or maybe in one of the park's Red Trucks tour wagons. Glad I drove it, but don’t need to do it again. Ever. On the way out, several cars pulled over to see a bear. Park ranger tried to get cars to move, they didn’t.

It’s 7:30pm and I am glad to be back at camp! Had a snack, fed Sparky then brought my chair and beverage over to visit with my neighbors. Turns out Keith applied to the Airstream Customer Council too! We talk about a few things and I am going to pass along his comments to the committee.

Day 2 – I leave Sparky behind to get gas and explore the visitor’s center (which he is not allowed in). It’s another hot day. The visitors center was great! There's a movie that goes thru the history of the glaciers. Glaciers are not just about the ice on the mountains. These mountains are like gigantic rocks. They are hard with very little green life at the peaks. Gradually, for generations, the ice has been melting away and less and less snow is on the mountains. What gives the mountains their unique shape is the weight of the snow, which weighs down on the earth and actually breaks, making fantastic cliffs. The sediment crumbles down the mountain and feeds into the lakes. The brilliant blue colors of these lakes are a result of the unique minerals that change the chemistry of the water. I learn there is a special astrology class tonight starting at 10:30 pm, I will try and go. They say that sometimes you can see the Aurora Borealis from here!

Last night my neighbors had mentioned another part of the park called Many Glaciers, which they are checking into today. That is where we go exploring today. OMG the road is b-u-m-p-y. So many horrific potholes. I can’t imagine driving a trailer thru this. Where are our federal dollars going? Not on this road I guess. I am only able to go about 5 miles in before getting turned back because of the parking lots are full. The scenery is so beautiful, I don’t mind. The water is turquoise! I wish we could have gone all the way in because there is a Swiss style chalet I wanted to see and was hoping we could have lunch at. Took some beautiful pictures on the way out though. Passed cattle on the road. They're in no rush either.

Note – I next time I come back, I want to do it on Amtrack! You go from Seattle to Glacier Park (back to Seattle or on to Chicago). You can stay in one of the park’s Swiss Chalets, take some of the Red Truck tours and just enjoy being a passenger!

Then, just because I like to drive, we go all the way to Canada (about 30 minutes) and turn around. Just gorgeous scenery. Hungry, I start looking for lunch spots. The best place around, “Sisters,” has no shaded outdoor seating. It is hot and sunny again today, so I had to pass. I found a cute little taco place near the camp site. I am hoping for the best, it looks promising and they have margaritas. Sadly, they are sold out of margaritas from last night and the bar back won’t be in for another hour. I reluctantly order a diet coke. The salsa was really good…the tacos were ok. Note to anyone wanting to open a cal-mex or tex-mex truck…this part of the country needs you!

After returning to camp for a nap, we go off looking for a swimming hole. You would think with all the lakes and streams around here that would be easy. It's not. First, I drove about 10 miles north to Duck Lake hoping to find an access point thru dirt roads. I aborted that idea because it led me to a sketchy area of single mobile homes, and no cell service. Stopped into a small café and they said the main river has access, try that. The main river is near me, so that sounded great. I get there and can’t find easy river access. I’m almost ready to give up and I pull into the Chewing Blackbones campground and recreational park. Jackpot! This Indian run camp has a day rate of $10 for swimming and is dog friendly. We suit up and get wet! It feels so good. There are some locals swimming too. Sparky is a little reluctant to get into the water, but I put him in his life vest and in he goes. We do this a few times and he is very happy. Then we play ball for about 20 minutes. So happy. So tired!

Made a great salad for dinner. Then, knock, knock, knock…it’s Steve & Renee from Choteau. They’re now staying here too! They were just driving around the camp site and saw my rig (#2114) …and that I left my keys in the door! How stupid of me. That’s what happens when you're tired. I usually keep the keys around my neck until I get in the door. Great reminder to stick with the routine. It won’t let you down.

I wake up at 2 am upset at myself for not going to the night sky program at visitor’s center. I open the door to look at the sky. I have never seen anything so beautiful with my own eyes. It’s magical. There are so many little lights, some larger than others, on a midnight blue canvas. Stunning - like diamonds on blue velvet. I'm kicking myself for not going earlier and hope there will be another one, at a different park, I can go to soon. I tried to take pictures, but they didn’t come out. I go back to bed because I am afraid, I might not be able go back to sleep. I pray the image will be forever etched into memory.